Aiguille Noire de Peuterey - Cresta Sud
View route detailsAfter the Agner ridge we couldn’t miss this one! We left Milan at 8 a.m. with the idea of climbing the ridge in two days. At the parking lot a guide advised us to take nothing but a few nuts and a single half rope, but we set off fully equipped with a hammer, pitons, two ropes, cams, 7 liters of water between us, etc. (you never know when you might have to descend from some random point). The approach is not short, but the environment is magnificent and more than rewards the effort. The rock is at times delicate, with loose flakes. We climbed unroped up to the bifurcation and set up our bivouac on the Welzenbach ledge, with a wonderful view of the pylons and a full moon that made it impossible to sleep (and also impossible to climb, since at night the rock is really freezing). By lunchtime we were on the summit and began the ordeal of the descent, which brought us back to Cantù at 00:30! A beautiful adventure, one that would be worth repeating and not stopping at the Noire, but continuing all the way to Mont Blanc.
