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Val di Mello - Bodenshass (Bodenshaff?)

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Holding a skull: Bodenshass or Bodenshaff? That is the question. Online it appears under the second name, while in the Boscacci guidebook it is listed under the first. In any case, it is a major and extremely demanding route, a masterpiece of Jacopo Merizzi’s genius. We climbed a variant start, beginning on Anche per oggi non si vola, then traversing over grassy terrain and tackling a bouldery move with a heel-hook on mountain pine to reach the true line. Some locals told us that the original start is now unclimbable due to vegetation. The topo lists the difficulty as VI+ and A2. Beware… it takes roughly thirty cams (or large eccentric bongs) to respect that grade; otherwise you actually have to free climb, and on very hard terrain too. The day was not my best—I had only slept five hours and then driven alone for two hours. Fortunately Andrea (to whom I give my greatest compliments) climbed the arching dihedral pitch I gave him with complete ease. And his performance didn’t stop there: he freed all the pitches, only resting once!