Long ago I had already come to try this route, but the conditions (both mine and Lele’s) were not ideal, and instead of climbing we ended up having a snack at the Hotel Gran Paradiso. This year, on the 30th anniversary of the opening of this beautiful route, I return here with Jacopo. The pitches are not trivial and the grades in the topo feel slightly optimistic, but the climb goes smoothly enough without issues. I still find it mysterious why it was named Nautilus. On the way back we pass beneath the “Desperation Crack”, which is so beautiful that it cannot remain just a dream for much longer. To properly end the day we head to a classic: the Kosterlitz Crack. As Don Abbondio might say, “Mike Kosterlitz—who was he?” We pretend to be perfectly capable of climbing it, but our attempts are in vain.