Eldorado - Motorhead
View route details“Charles Lindbergh to Eldorado, can you hear me?”… That’s how our journey begins, with Jacopo slipping while trying to “take off” on the second pitch and landing hard on the ledge. The wet rock on the next pitch doesn’t leave me much choice, so I’m forced to make an A0 move on a micro cam. After that, the route flows smoothly until, at the seventh belay (from now on, it becomes important to keep track of the pitches), instead of heading right, we continue straight up a crack, only to rejoin the route with a beautiful pendulum across vertical slabs completely devoid of grip. The final section is no joke either: the second-to-last pitch, where the crack flares just before the roof, is dripping with water. Luckily, two lobes of one cam get stuck in the crack, and another two lobes from a second cam hold as well. A1 is guaranteed… If I were to fall, the cams would probably come with me. Aside from a few water-related inconveniences, the route is beautiful. Even though the Rémy brothers have been systematically increasing the number of bolts on their routes—usually quite sparsely protected—they didn’t make much of an effort here. Perhaps because they wanted their masterpiece to retain its original difficulty: there are plenty of bolts on the easy pitches, while on the hard ones there are never more than two per pitch.
