GraueWand - Conquest
View route detailsAt the parking lot I keep getting in and out of the car, still half asleep: water, the carabiner for my shoes, ice axe, crampons… Meanwhile a white Mini arrives and I think to myself… hey, I know that guy… he’s strong: I’ve seen him somewhere on the internet. So we start the approach, taking it easy—no point in rushing ahead of the strong guys and creating a queue. We reach the start five minutes before the team from the Mini and let them go first. Then it finally clicks: it’s Saro and a friend of his who, if I hadn’t had plans that Friday, would have come with me and Jacopo on Motorhead some time ago. The route is very beautiful and the company is fun. More than climbing, we devote ourselves to chatting. Matteo onsights the superb 6b+ pitch that should have been mine, but a missed belay earlier in the route hands it over to him. At the 8- crack, fearing we might get stuck in some extreme aid climbing, we opt for a VI variation, fascinating in its own way. After the last two pitches—one very nice and one completely insignificant—we start the rappels, which bring us a couple of hours later to the Spycher, for a chat with Saro and Alberto before heading home.