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Picco Luigi Amedeo - Taldo Nusdeo

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Everything is wet on Monday morning: the sleeping bag, the tarp I used instead of a mattress to protect the car boot, and me… We leave from the sports centre with the aim of climbing the Parravicini ridge on Cima di Zocca. It’s 7 a.m. and we reach the Rifugio Allievi very quickly, where we stop for a small snack (more than half a kilo of walnut sweet bread, some energy bars, and plenty of water), which ends up taking quite a long time. We then set off towards Zocca, but once we reach the approach ledge we realise we would not make it back down in time for dinner. We turn around. Result: almost 2000 metres of elevation gain. After an ugly argument between the hut manager and a hiker, we discover that breakfast cannot be served before 6 a.m.—or rather, it can, but only if you bring it yourself… A poor dinner, a few words with a man who once met Carlesso, and off to bed. At 6 a.m. we find a plate with two jams and a cup of tea. Hut rating: 4/10. The wall is beautiful, very steep, the route exposed and not very well equipped. Here Jacopo discovers his passion for simul-climbing on hard pitches. A dirty pitch is the only flaw in this masterpiece. We leave a piton at the belay leading into the grade VII dihedral, and continue in simul-climb, chasing Jacopo as he skips a belay. The final pitch involves fifteen minutes of silence and immobility: the ropes won’t move, Jacopo can’t hear me and I can’t hear him. In the end, pulling like mad, one of the ropes finally starts moving and Jacopo arrives. The descent is long, but a good plate of pizzoccheri makes it all better and helps me forget that the next morning I will be heading up to the Bivacco Gervasutti on the Freboudze glacier…