Salbitschjien - WestGrat
View route detailsWho was Obelix? According to Jacopo, it’s me… ahahah… Instead of using the bivouac (fresh—during the night the temperature dropped below zero, with Jacopo dreaming of sneaking into the hut to grab blankets and make a hot tea), I start reinforcing the stone wall that protects our little ledge from wind and exposure. The stones, however, in my opinion do not exceed 35 kg each… But let’s start from the beginning: the weather in the Uri Alps is perfect, so I suggest to Jacopo and Daniele that we could realize one of my million dreams. The tone of the suggestion is by no means forceful, and nobody dares to object :-) After reaching Göschenen, we face over three hours of approach and about fifteen pitches to reach the designated bivouac spot: the summit of the second tower. Mario had actually suggested sleeping on the top of the large, flat third (!!!!!) tower (which in reality, according to the description, corresponds to the second one). The route flows well; the cemented belay rings make us climb a few more pitches than shown in the topo, but we still reach quite quickly the place where I will later receive the insulting nickname. In the morning it is cold, but movement wakes us up quickly. The towers pass, and so does time, without us really noticing. We are overtaken by a rope team of three Swiss climbers (one of whom is a friend and former military companion of Saro), determined to complete the ridge in a single day. It is around 2 p.m. and we are only on the fifth tower. A bit more effort, the aid pitch, and the pendulum on a bolt with a quicklink—and then the summit. Here I learn a new ritual: summit anchovies! Something completely new to me, but surprisingly pleasant. While anchovies are not exactly caramel, at that moment they almost taste sweet. Four photos on the “flame,” where Jacopo does not miss the opportunity to cling even to the last piton and pull on it mercilessly, a short video, and then a fast descent to the car after a brief stop at the hut. We will reach the Piazzale Lotto parking lot exactly at midnight.
