Skip to main content

Caporal - Diedro Nanchez

View route details

Saturday afternoon: we head towards the Pontese hut. It’s a beautiful day—dry, with a clear sky. After an abundant and excellent dinner, I start copying the topo for Hasta Siempre, our objective for the next morning, when two exhausted and breathless guys arrive—one of them is Gabriele (from Gap Climb), obviously just back from Nel Corso del Tempo. The night is starry and everything points to perfect conditions. After a long chat I go to sleep. 4:45 a.m.: alarm. Not a single star to be seen… and yet the forecast had been good… Piantonetto and its fogs… We grope in the dark, barely seeing our feet for about two hours, until we finally bump into a rock wall: it’s the buttress at the foot of Monte Nero. Unfortunately, we are on the wrong side, and traversing a razor-sharp, extremely slippery vertical meadow in search of a via ferrata that (with visibility down to 3 metres!) we wouldn’t find even with binoculars would be madness. We go back down. We return to the car and descend into the valley, where we opt for a quick outing around Noasca. After some debate between “Apparizione del Cristo Verde,” “Diedro Nanchez,” and “Fessura della Disperazione,” we decide to put our energy into Nanchez. At the parking lot we meet Marco and Guendalina, with whom we happily share the climb. We hope to meet them again soon. The route is physical and demanding; although the grade is not very high on paper, it does not exactly match Lecchese standards, and the 5–6 hours indicated in the topo—which we had laughed at—turn out not to be exaggerated at all. The route is incredible and the exposure is always maximal. See you soon, El Caporal.