After an attempt on Ambrusogn that ended in rappels, I treat myself to the luxury of three hours of sleep: just enough to go and face Polimago fresh. I trudge up through the forest and even forget to drink before setting off! Lucio is in excellent shape and I’m very happy that I’ll be taking the “easy” pitches. “Easy” because on this route commitment is never missing, and whoever doesn’t lead the vertical VI+ slab has to deal with the famous traverse. I leave a piton in the big chimney, finding it extreme after going too deep into the offwidth, but in the end I manage to pass. A very uncomfortable belay above the “door of heaven,” sitting on a blade of rock that alternately opens under you or cuts off circulation to your legs. Lucio manages to overcome the VI+ slab, and meanwhile the traverse gets closer… A V+ pitch with feet on a slab shedding tiny crystals, then the beautiful VI pitch (in my opinion the best of the route), and there it is: I start moving rightwards on a slight descent, make a smearing step, and reach the wonderful crack of Luna! Although I suggested to Lucio that we use the trick some climbers use—rigging a sort of “clothesline” so the second doesn’t hang in space in case of a slip—he, after a few metres of traverse, annoyed by the second rope coming from the left, ends up clipped only to the line following the traverse. A couple more pitches and we’re out! To be honest, I expected more from the lower pitches after everything I had heard… In any case, the route is very beautiful. We immediately go to retrieve the rappels, which, due to a moment’s inattention, force us to cut one of the ropes after it got stuck under the third belay of Oracoli di Ulisse.