Skip to main content

Cinque dita - Spigolo del pollice + normale

View route details

Here begins the adventure of Mr. Bonavventura once again… and here I am back on the scene! For a while I’m not allowed to lead climbs, but we immediately manage to break that rule! Going in order, I follow Livio—my young (72-year-old) training partner at the gym—who covers ground effortlessly and never seems to notice any of the protection the route actually offers. I set off on the “second pitch,” a detrital ledge about a hundred metres long followed by easy steps. I immediately drift onto the harder line to retrieve a carabiner that’s sparkling, only to discover it’s actually a tiny Metolius cam! What more could you want?! I leave Livio the ridge pitches (some might say they’re too easy), but this is my first outing in the mountains and I’m a bit nervous. Two hand-sized rappels later, we’re off again! I get another easy pitch, and then what felt like the hardest of the route: instead of exiting below the jammed boulder of the normal line, I climb a grade IV chimney with a wedged block. The summit is close and rewards us with an unusual encounter: Ivo Rabanser with a client. A sprint to the cable car, and the test run can be considered complete!