From the weather forecast it looks like it won’t rain anymore in the Dolomites… On the way back from Agordo, I suggest to Saverio a reconnaissance in Val di San Lucano… the big dihedral is dry! Three days of high pressure… how could we let such an opportunity slip away?!? We take advantage of it to study the approach, rebuild cairns, clean the trail, and remove branches and rocks obstructing the way forward. The decision is not to be taken lightly, and the next day, still in the dark, we are already at Tita’s hut. The approach to the base goes smoothly, 20 minutes of waiting for the sun to rise, and then off onto the buttress, which, from what I had read, I expected to be a nightmare—yet it turns out to be little more than a steep forest path. We pass the Massarotto “hotel” and immediately find the start. A thought goes to the bold Casarotto, who did not yet know about this convenient access at the time of the first ascent. Renato Casarotto We start climbing. We immediately realize that the grades in the topo are given in a very tight way and we adjust accordingly. At the end of the easy section, Saverio veers into a difficult variation, with rock that is not exactly beautiful, but eventually finds the belay of the route. We are all more relaxed. From the Massarotto “hotel” someone is signaling to us, but we can’t figure out who it is. Pitch after pitch, the route unfolds and we finally come into view of the great dihedral. It is truly immense. It’s 6 p.m. and we decide to stop for the night in a comfortable niche for two. It’s a great night. We both sleep and wake up around 6, feeling refreshed. The dihedral, easy on paper, still holds surprises. At the ledge we find a Decathlon backpack full of emergency blankets. We don’t lose heart: there is still a lot to climb. After an initial (useless) pitch, we decide to untie and move more freely on the ramps leading to the summit. This proves to be an excellent choice, and in just under an hour we begin the descent. Between rappels, downclimbs, and exposed passages, great care is required. Once we reach the meadows, it’s still not over… we still have to climb again before descending. We reach the car at Prà di Mezzo just in time to go for dinner at the agriturismo at the entrance of Val Corpassa and toast with a spritz from Lagunaz! Some notes on the route: 1. better to go in three to distribute the load more evenly (I had a backpack of about 10 kg) 2. after the “III” pitches, traverse immediately below the pillar and do not be tempted by the ledge visible about ten meters above 3. in the dihedral there are various equipped belays in addition to those shown in the topo 4. the bivouac spot on the ledge at the end of the dihedral is very damp and therefore not recommended 5. the two-car strategy is recommended, allowing a comfortable descent to Prà di Mezzo while avoiding rappels or climbing down from the Torre pass Considering the environment, the distance from humanity (apparently small), the lack of mobile signal, and the minimal equipment on the route, I can only conclude that it is a great climb and congratulate Saverio for the patience and endurance of leading all the pitches.