Sasso Trolcia - Casarotto
View route detailsAnd here we have a small, overlooked gem in Ticino! After a long drive approach due to the Locarno triathlon, we arrive in Val Maggia. After crossing the characteristic suspension bridge, we face the 30 (?!?!?!) minutes of approach (which become 35 on the way back downhill). The route is very physical and very beautiful. The rock is excellent and not as dirty as people say. Unfortunately, due to a misinterpretation of the first pitch, I fear we did not climb the final one. For this reason, I am deeply sorry to announce that I will not post the topo until I return and repeat it to the very end. Some information for those interested: the start is marked by a cairn with a quickdraw hanging out from the stones. Camalots from 0.5 to 4 are used (size 4 is not strictly necessary, and having a double set of size 2 is better). The crack is climbed almost entirely in layback technique, but there are a couple of quite painful jamming moves: hand taping is recommended. P.S. for the curious: the mistake was stopping (mistaking it for a belay) at two closely spaced bolts, one with a rap ring, about 20 metres off the ground. The first proper belay is 15 metres further on.