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Scoglio di Mroz - Gogna + Impressioni di Settembre

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The forgotten west is fantastic: no traffic, beautiful rock, wild places. We start early but not too early, at 6 from Arluno, heading for Scoglio di Mroz. Today we would like to climb a very beautiful route and even one described as “one of the most beautiful in Piedmont” (this refers to Impressioni di settembre. I have a few things to say about that: I’m fine with the first two pitches, but what follows is rather disappointing…). The approach is short, but not without issues. Saverio’s approach shoes were left in Arluno, but we can manage without them anyway. We set off on the first pitch and Saverio realizes he has no belay device: no problem… the old half clove hitch will do. It’s a very hot day: better to move quickly. Soon I hand Saverio my belay plate and, before we know it, we are on top of the crag. A few comfortable rappels on the Gogna route, and in no time we are back at the base of the wall. We move under the beautiful crack of Impressioni di settembre. The second pitch is also very nice. The third is a bit less so and tries in every way to avoid joining the Gogna line. Why? The next pitch is an epic horror, and honestly I don’t understand why Oviglia decided to bolt this pitch a few years after the first three pitches were opened. I do not recommend rappelling Impressioni. The Gogna rappels (on shiny new bolts connected with luxurious Raumer chains) can be done with a single 60-meter rope, the ropes run much more easily and there is less risk of getting them stuck.