Forcellino - Discovery
View route detailsThe Forcellino is one of the black holes of the Lecchese area: almost nothing is known about it, the routes are all feared, the climate is hostile (either too hot or too cold), and as a result it is hardly ever frequented. In the morning, in the shade, all the rumors seem confirmed: the belays are hanging and unsettling, all on rusty bolts; it’s cold; all the bolts you see around are old and ugly. As soon as the sun arrives, the mood changes completely: superb limestone slabs, Verdon-like in the lower section and more Dolomitic higher up, beautiful movement pitches and excellent belays (the ones on the route, not the rappel stations). Jacopo is so enthusiastic about the climbing that he asks me to give him my two leads. Not particularly keen on swapping leads on a hanging belay, I immediately agree to his request. Angelo, as planned, finishes with the last three pitches. A very beautiful route and (surprisingly for the Lecchese area, just 20 minutes from the car) on perfect, extremely rough rock. As for the grades, I’m not quite sure what to say: the 6c pitches are very hard, whether it’s 7a or 7a+ I have no idea, and the supposedly “obligatory” 6b+ doesn’t really seem to exist.