Monte Qualido - Magic line
View route detailsAfter Due Sogni, I suggest to Jacopo that it’s time to do a plaisir route. He replies by proposing Magic Line. How could we refuse? Of course we couldn’t! We set off at a relaxed pace toward the Scivolo crag, where 6a+ feels easy and 6b+ feels impossible. It’s already clear what kind of day it’s going to be. Angelo joins us, and we start climbing up toward Hotel Qualido. I enjoy gathering firewood with a broken-handled saw (if anyone has one lying around and happens to repeat a route in that area…), and then it’s off to bed. The route wakes us up immediately, with a nice cold slab pitch on icy rock and a mandatory crux move. Otherwise, one way or another, everything goes. Hanging on the rope doesn’t get you very far—you still have to climb every pitch properly. There’s a lot of traffic today, and we see no fewer than three rope teams wandering around beneath the wall. To our surprise, at the belay below the dihedral pitch we’re joined by Paolo (from Mystica on the Innerkofler) and his partner Leonardo. The route is literally full of grass everywhere there aren’t solid compact slabs. We head back down late in the day, but fortunately the pizzeria in San Martino is still open…
