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Torre Trieste - Carlesso Sandri

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Absolutely convinced we were going to climb the most beautiful route in Trieste (it takes real motivation to go there—the descent is nothing like the approach to Galbiate), we set off fired up with Saverio (who, however, will be struck by a sinus infection and turn back before the ledge), Mattia, Angelo, Jacopo, and the independent rope team of Edo and Francesco heading for the Cassin route. The first pitches, shared by everyone, go quickly and smoothly. As soon as the routes split, we understand the trap: the real battle begins. The route requires considerable intuition, and the rock is at times rotten, very often covered in gravel and loose stones. Just the ropes moving send debris raining down. Slowly, we find our way. At the second ledge we see Edo and Francesco almost level with us. Here the rock improves significantly and the climbing becomes more continuous. The A1 pitch is unsettling, but afterwards everything becomes enjoyable again. We exit via the original line, mistakenly discouraged by the yellow paint of the Hasse variation. Here a rock hits Jacopo and forces us into a Japanese-style “cluster rope team” to save both goat and cabbage (retreating from the Carlesso with only four pitons is practically impossible). With carefully measured slowness we reach the summit, and fortunately my memory serves me well. The descent goes smoothly, without incidents or setbacks. With the last light of day we reach our packs and Saverio, who—saintly—has been waiting for us at the car all day. N.B. All the topo descriptions available on the market are not very reliable; therefore I recommend that repeat ascents use mine, which I will sign (on Jacopo’s suggestion) as Enrico Della Magnolia, clearly indicating the timings: 15 minutes for the approach, 2 hours for the climb in 10 pitches, 30 minutes for the descent, unfortunately disproportionately long compared to the ascent.