What better day to climb the Biancograt without crowds? During the week everyone is working — especially in Switzerland… In fact, the Tscherva Hut is full, and we end up sleeping in the winter room. At 3 a.m. the alarm goes off, and there’s already a procession heading toward the Biancograt and the Roseg. In about an hour we’re ready to set off, and at a steady pace we overtake a few groups. It feels like standing in line at a government office, and at one point a fight almost breaks out between a guided group and a party of two who were determined to overtake instead of waiting their turn. The route is stunning — easy, exposed, and in excellent condition. Once at the top, we immediately start descending, convinced the hard part is behind us… The descent is endless and includes plenty of uphill sections. At a certain point we resign ourselves to the ups and downs and a trail that seems never-ending. Just then, a sign appears: “Morteratsch RHB 25 min.”… we can’t believe it. We start running and, by a hair, manage to jump onto the little red train at 17:31 — strangely five minutes late.