Guglia della Torre di Lagunaz - L'uomo migliora il tempo
View route detailsBeppe and Saverio are well-known climbers, and right now (with half a lung) I’m struggling quite a bit to keep up with them up the buttress of the Spiz di Lagunaz. I get to work on the first pitch of the route (the one that worries me the most), where a VI (???) move on crumbly rock gives us a warm welcome. Everything goes smoothly until the VII– crack, which is neither really a crack nor VII–, and ends up taking us quite a while. From there, we manage to reach, with the last light of day, a barely comfortable bivouac spot, where I fall into a deep sleep, not even noticing Saverio and Beppe chatting beside me in the middle of the night! After a hearty breakfast, we set off again with much lighter packs (3 liters of water have turned into 0.75!), and by lunchtime we reach the end of the route. The climb is demanding — overall a notch harder than the nearby Casarotto–Radin dihedral. I stop to photograph my friends’ signatures in the route logbook, and then it’s down toward Pra di Mezzo, which always seems like an unreachable destination. With permission from Heinz Grill, I’m publishing his original route description, which I found very accurate — although I would have been a bit more generous with the grades on the harder pitches.
