“Lore, what climbing shoes should we wear? I think I'll wear the Pantera, so maybe I can climb a bit instead of just pulling the protections.” “Yeah, sure, Filo, I'll take the good shoes too.” No sooner said than done. Ivrea, 12:30 p.m. But where are my shoes????? Luckily, at least I have my boots... 2:30 PM Courmayeur, 4810 store, I’m buying a pair of Tarantulas, a shoe known for its precision. The salesman, moved by our project, even gives me a 10-euro discount. We head up to Monzino and wake up shortly after. The Brouillard Glacier is in stratospheric condition and we climb without any trouble. We reach Colle Eccles, climb a few meters of the Innominata until we find a rappel point (which leads to nowhere, down steep scree—and the rope gets stuck). We arrive at the base of the face at 9 a.m., a bit late for our initial plan, which was the Jori Bardill. Without a guidebook, we climb, finding belays and pitons until we reach, at the base of the Chandelle, a rope team of Bavarian guys who had slept at Eccles. The sun disappears behind the ridge and the wall turns into a freezer. Slowly we exit the Chandelle and begin the “difficult mixed” section, which is difficult only on paper. Before long we’re at the top, and then to Vallot. The next day I discover I’ve bruised two toenails, and the descent will be a real pleasure. A beautiful climb overall, even if the climbing is discontinous. We’ll be back for the original plan...