The weather forecast isn't great... Cloudy and cold, with a chance of rain in the afternoon... We abandon our original plan in Wenden and head for a backup route. It's short—400 meters—and the difficulty isn't too high: max 6c+, S2, with a mandatory 6b section. We set out thinking that if the day is good, we might be able to free climb the whole route fairly quickly. Nothing could be further from the truth!! The climbing is extremely technical, with baffling friction moves, and even the 6b sections prove to be a real challenge (we suspect the difficulty should be bumped up by a full French grade to reflect reality). On the other hand, the face is full south (not SE as written in the guidebook) and the clouds refuse to show themselves (while the Wenden is shaded by dreamlike veils)...