Skip to main content

Pizzo Cengalo - Dalai Lama

View route details

Val Masino is always further away than it seems… an hour and a half by car from home, and then the real journey begins. We set off with the idea of doing two routes: one on the Dente della Vecchia and one on the Cengalo. That’s exactly how it goes, except that Godzilla is completely soaked and, just as we approach it, it starts shedding snow from the central section. We divert to Champignon Merveilleux, and we don’t regret it. It’s time for dinner and to study tomorrow’s route. Damiano and I will go on Dalai Lama, while Lorenzino, Vittoria, Paolo and Darione will tackle Vinci. Damiano leads, having calculated the pitches so that I get the crux. He manages to link four pitches, but in the end the VII pitch still falls to me. I return the favour by linking two pitches higher up and giving him the last 6b+. Soon we are on the summit and already imagining the descent, only to find a queue on the abseils…